Chain stitch and the Cornely A3 machine: what "hand-drawn" artisanal embroidery is
If you have ever run your fingers over an embroidered name and felt a soft, slightly raised, almost "braided" texture, you were likely touching a chain stitch. It is one of the oldest and most fascinating techniques in embroidery, and in our artisanal workshop, it comes to life thanks to a legendary machine: the Cornely A3.
In this article, we look at what chain stitch really is, how the machine that produces it works, why it is considered "manually guided" embroidery, and how it differs from the automated embroidery you find everywhere. It is the working method behind the personalized embroidery at Ricami Veronica.
What is chain stitch?
The chain stitch (in Italian punto catenella, in French point de chaînette) is a stitch formed by a series of concatenated loops that, one after the other, draw a continuous line. The name comes from its very appearance: a small chain of thread links that follows the path of the design.
Unlike other stitches, the chain stitch creates a full, substantial, and soft-to-the-touch line, perfect for writing names, outlining motifs, and giving embroidery a warm, artisanal character. It is a "living" stitch: it follows the hand of the person executing it and yields that slight irregularity which is, in fact, the signature of handmade work.
A history over 150 years long
Machine chain stitching is not a recent invention. Throughout the 19th century, various technicians attempted to build a machine capable of producing a continuous chain stitch. The first real industrial success came in the early 1860s thanks to Antoine Bonnaz, an engineer connected to the world of silk.
Bonnaz's patent was later acquired by Ercole Cornely, who opened a factory in Paris. Cornely developed a hook needle capable of forming a line of chain stitches: at first, the machines were called "Bonnaz," but they soon became known worldwide by the name Cornely machines. The first and simplest of them all, the Cornely type “A” machine, was made in 1865 and performed only two operations: chain stitch and moss stitch.
The Cornely A3: how it works
The Cornely A3 belongs to the historic family of "A" Cornely machines: a high-speed industrial machine designed for chain stitch and moss stitch embroidery. It is the tool that allows an artisan to obtain clean, continuous lines while maintaining total control over the design.
The secret lies in the way it is guided. The Cornely is a single-thread and manually guided machine: under the work surface, there is a crank (a hand control) connected to a transport ring — the so-called universal feed — that directs the orientation of the stitch. While one hand guides the movement from below, the operator follows the design from above and regulates the speed with their feet.
In practice, it is like "drawing" with a needle: it is not the machine that decides the path, but the person. Every curve, every letter, every loop closure is the result of gesture and sensitivity. This is why it takes years of practice to master it, and it is also the reason why two identical embroideries are, in reality, never quite the same.
Chain stitch and moss stitch
The same machine performs two sister techniques. The chain stitch forms the classic line of concatenated links. The moss stitch, instead, is an unfixed chain stitch, obtained by modifying the movement of the hook and looper: it creates a soft, raised, almost velvety effect. They are two souls of the same instrument, which explain why Cornely embroidery has always had such a recognizable look.
Manually guided embroidery vs. automated embroidery
Today, most commercial embroidery is done with computerized automatic machines: you load a digital file, press a button, and the machine replicates the same design thousands of times, identically. It is a fast and efficient method, perfect for large quantities, but devoid of that human touch that makes each piece different.
Manually guided embroidery with the Cornely works in the opposite way:
- The path is not digitized: it is the artisan who traces it in real-time.
- Every piece is unique: small variations make the embroidery authentic, not serial.
- The feel is different: the chain stitch has body and softness that an automated seam rarely reproduces.
- Experience counts: the quality depends on the hand of the embroiderer, not just the machine.
It is no coincidence that manually guided embroidery is making a comeback: after years of intense automation, many are rediscovering the value of handmade work, the small imperfection, and the artisanal gesture. The Cornely, born in the 19th century to embroider names on handkerchiefs and work shirts, is now at the center of this rediscovery.
Where you have already seen chain stitch (even without knowing it)
Chain stitch does not only belong to the world of linens. On the contrary, it is one of the most present embroideries in the history of costume, often thanks to Cornely machines. Created to embroider names on handkerchiefs and work shirts, these machines later decorated garments of all kinds.
- Western and stage apparel: large lettering and embroidered motifs on jackets and stage outfits are often made with chain stitch.
- Varsity and sports jackets: the soft, slightly raised lettering typical of varsity jackets stems from this very technique.
- Denim and workwear: logos and decorations on workwear and casual garments owe much to the chain stitch tradition.
- Linens and trousseaus: this is where the chain stitch performs best in personalizing names, with that warm relief that printing cannot imitate.
Recognizing it, once you know what to look for, is easy: the line of small concatenated loops is unmistakable.
Why we choose chain stitch for our embroidery
At Ricami Veronica, the chain stitch is not a passing trend: it is our way of interpreting personalization. When we embroider a name on a towel or a bathrobe, we want the difference between an industrial product and a hand-finished item to be seen — and felt.
The chain stitch gives the name a soft and warm presence, a small relief that invites you to run your fingers over it. It is a detail that elevates the entire object and transforms it into something to be kept with affection. And it is consistent with our idea of craftsmanship: Italian raw materials, hand-guided workmanship, and attention to every single piece.
How to recognize a good chain stitch
If you are considering personalized embroidery, here is what to look out for:
- Regularity of the chain: the loops must be uniform, without tears or gaps in the path.
- Cleanliness of the curves: rounded letters immediately reveal the hand of the embroiderer.
- Thread hold: good embroidery does not unravel and withstands washing.
- Soft relief: the chain stitch must have body, not appear flat like a print.
How to care for a chain-stitched garment
A well-executed chain-stitch embroidery is robust, but it remains a weave of thread: a little care during washing will preserve its appearance for a long time. The general instructions, which should always be compared with the product label, are few and simple.
- Washing at moderate temperatures: this protects the thread and its colors.
- Turn the garment inside out: this reduces direct friction on the chain loops.
- No harsh bleaches: they can discolor the embroidery.
- Delicate ironing: better from the inside out or with a protective cloth over the embroidery.
With these precautions, the chain stitch retains its relief and definition even after many washes, exactly as one would expect from quality artisanal work.
In summary
The chain stitch is an ancient yet very current form of embroidery: a line of concatenated loops, soft and raised, that gives character to names and decorations. Making it possible is the historic Cornely A3 machine, a direct descendant of the Cornely machines born in 1865: a single-thread, manually guided machine where it is the artisan's hand that "draws" every stitch.
It is this combination — historical technique and artisanal sensitivity — that lies behind the personalized embroidery at Ricami Veronica. If you want a name embroidered with the warmth of handmade work, rather than the coldness of a print, the chain stitch is the right choice. Find out how to personalize your first item in our catalog.